kitty:my thoughts on square shawl construction

"An industrious knitter could just about finish a man's stocking in a 15-kilometer stretch of even, easy walking. so said an 80-year old woman from Leksand in the 1890's." Danielsson, Brigitta Dandanell-Ulla 1984. "Twinded Knitting" I keep thinking about what that 80-year-old woman in Leksand said. I couldn't even walk 9.3 miles and certainly not while knitting. On the other hand it really also made me think about all the skills and techniques that have been lost or almost lost through the ages. Whether it is because of German Knitting teachers who taught that there way was the only way to knit or if it was just because of the evolution of the modernization of techniques for one reason or another. Even today, when someone actually tries to do research on shawl construction, it is almost impossible to find written text about the construction and history. On top of that, if the book was ever written, it is probably out of print. So this really got me thinking about things I have read, shawls that I was lucky enough to see in the Ohio Sate University Textile collection, techniques I figured out on my own due to the fear of running out of yarn, and also information that I gained during the most recent workshops that I attended. If you have other references on these construction types, please let me know. I would love to be able to find out more.

Modern Shawl This is probably the shawl design that we are all the most familiar with and understandably it is probably the easiest one to work out the math. You create either a large square or large rectangle. When the center is completed the outer most stitch is then picked up and worked around the edge of the main square as the anchor. The corners are either done using short rows or by bunching up extra stitches to form a corner. The bunched up stitches though have a tendency to create a pucker or a poof.

Orenburg Lace Shawl Up until the workshop that I took with Galina Alexandrovna Khmeleva I didn't realize that this was the technique for Traditional Orenburg Lace Shawls. When I was working on one of my shawl last winter I basically figured out this structure, but I was knitting the brown body section with three needles. (2 needles were used for the borders and then a longer needle for the actual body) I wanted to knit the borders as I went because I had a huge fear of running out of the two skeins of yarn that I had. This technique evolved with the next bordered shawl that I made and I ended up just knitting the borders across. The right side (front side) is always one row ahead of the backside. You can tell that you are on the front side of your work because the tail from the cast on is on the left hand side.

After taking the workshop on Orenburg lace, we found out that this structure was used somewhat out of necessity. This way your yarn is never broken and there is little or no waste in your cashgora. Since one goat was enough to make 2.5 shawls with lots of holes. The other thing that I found really interesting about the construction is that it is always knit with a knit stitch on both the wrong and right side of the shawl so that there is never a front or back of your shawl. Cast On Edge First Section of the Border Short Row Corner 1 Stitches are then picked up along the border with the free needle and then knit across to the opposite corner. Stitches are picked up from the cast on and the 2nd Short Row Corner is knit The body and border are now knit side to side Short Row Corner 3 is knit The final section of the border is knit using one live stitch from the previous full row. Short Row Corner 4 is knit Short Row Corner is grafted to the border of the main body (brown)

Galina Alexandrovna Khmeleva 2008. Orenburg Lace Shawl Workshop

Traditional Shetland Shawl The traditional Shetland Shawl is worked in 4 pieces. The main body is started by the outside edge where you work short row edges to form half of the corners. The outside border is normally made up of two borders before the body is started. The body is worked from one edge to another to form either a square or rectangle. The other three sides are knit separately and then grafted together.

"Border Inwards" Traditional Hap Shawl 19th century This shawl is knit in two pieces. The center is knit as a diamond in garter stitch. The big difference is the outer length of each of the outer borders are cast on and worked to the center. Then the center edges are grafted together traditionally using the Herringbone Stitch or Mattress stitch. Miller, Sharon 2006. "Heirloom Knitting's Shetland Hap Shawls"

"Border Inwards" Modern Hap Shawl 1880's This shawl is knit in one piece if knitted in the round. The center is knit as a diamond in garter stitch. Then the outer stitches on all sides are picked up and knit outwards. (Note: If you do not work this shawl in the round you would do the method described above under Traditional Shetland Shawl.) Miller, Sharon 2006. "Heirloom Knitting's Shetland Hap Shawls"

Traditional Estonian Knitted Shawls For a lot of the earlier shawls they didn't have a border around the edge. The shawl was knit with one lace pattern in the middle and a garter stitch around all the sides. The garter stitch was often pulled out to form points with out a complicated border. Nancy Bush 2008. Knitting Estonian Lace Workshop

????? Early Haapsalu, Estonian Knitted Shawl???? I cannot find any information on actual construction. From the workshop I attended these shawls where knit in three pieces and the bind off edge of the border were grafted to the center. We will have to wait until the first Estonian Lace book is published in the states hopefully this fall to find out the secrete. Nancy Bush 2008. Knitting Estonian Lace Workshop

Modern Estonian Shawls It seems like with most modern adaptations complicated math and grafting has been replaced with picking up the outer stitch and working the border outwards to the bind off edge. Here the center square is made up of one knitted lace pattern framed with garter stitches. Then stitches are picked up along all four sides and knitted outwards to create a decorative border. Nancy Bush 2008. Knitting Estonian Lace Workshop

kitty: don't pinch me...

... Please don't pinch me, I don't want to wake up. I really want these dreams to continue. This past week was a dream come true in so many ways. I feel like a different world of techniques and skills has just been opened to me. If I had my way I would be catching a flight to Fallen, Sweden to study Tvåändsstickning/Twined Knitting in a heart beat or maybe Haapsalu, Estonia to study Estonian Lace or Orenburg to study traditional Lace patterns. I too want to drive a car across the Baltic Ocean in my quest of knitted wonders of the world. A girl can dream can't she, but at least I had the next best thing.

(Orenburg Lace Border with the first short row corner)

Last weekend I had the great fortune to take a class with Galina Alexandrovna Khmeleva on the basics of Orenburg lace Tradition. The class consisted of 12 glorious hours of knitting Orenburg lace. Basic techniques, history, and stories of yarns of the women of Orenburg. Then the I wonders continued on Wednesday and Thursday when I got to take 3 classes with Nancy Bush; Estonian Lace, Heels to Toe, and then thursday Tvåändsstickning/Twined Knitting/Two End Knitting. I can officially say that I am obsessed with Tvåändsstickning. If you are wondering what the next book Nancy Bush is working on.... Estonian Lace due out hopefully this fall.

(Click for larger image)

A few fun links: Anne-maj Ling's work Twined Knitting By Theresa Vinson Stenersen Tvåändsstickning Twined Knitting - History Pt. 1- Knitting Kninja Twined Knitting - History Pt. 2 - Knitting Kninja Two Books in English - Twined Knitting by Brigatta Dandanell & Two-end Knitting by Anne-maj Ling

Check the lovely little braided Tvåändsstickning cast on. It is done with three threads and forms a little line against the twined edge.

My very first colourwork in all its glory. As you can tell the second pattern rows look a lot better.

I folded the glove inside out so you can see how beautiful the inside of the glove is as well. In Sweden they have found gloves inside out in tombs.

kitty: christmas knitting recap

title: Olga's Knee Highs pattern: My own design content:2 strands of 55% cashmere / 45% silk Colourmart UK needles: US 000 & US 00 time: 35 hours So, I guess you are wondering how I did on the whole list of Christmas projects. Well I came pretty darn close to finishing the whole list of projects and getting them to there appointed households. The grand total went 5 Orenburgh shawls, 1 white cabled sweater (still needs buttons), 1 pair of knee highs, 1 market bag, 200 yards of Malabrigo type yarn, 300 yards of sock yarn, 300 yards of aran weight Shetland wool from three sheep (Marlene / Dark Brown, Ramsie / Chocolate Brown, Emax / Chocolate Brown), 6 lbs of hand made soap, and 6 stitch markers. I didn't finish the final market bag until MG knitted the icord for me on Christmas Day and I still need to send it off to Mia. These knee highs were one of the secrete projects I was working on. Sorry no photos of them on because the recipient had tiny feet. I just love how they almost glow.

kitty: overwhelmed * updated*

Happy Holiday's! I have been feeling bad that I haven't been posting and sharing about all the knitting that has been going on here in Columbus. My fingers have actually been either spinning or knitting themselves to the bone in hopes of meeting my holiday goals. Though I really feel like I have bitten off way to much this year. So we will see what doesn't get done. Though the hole concept of knitting for others just feels good this year, so I have been really happy. Sleep is becoming really an option item with work and crafting.

So I can not keep a secrete any longer......... at least you don't know who they are for or what they are going to be.... First one completed 50% mohair 50% cashmere from a small mill in Italy - item type unknown 15 hrs Third one completed, Same 50% mohair 50% cashmere - item type unknown 8hrs Second one completed, Same 50% mohair 50% cashmere - item type unknown 14hr Fourth one completed, Same 50% mohair 50% cashmere - item type unknown 14hrs 50% cotton, 20% cashmere, 30% wool - 98% completed - item type unknown 60hr (not all holiday)   50% cashmere 50% silk, Colourmart UK - item type unknown - 75% completed but on size 000 it is taking a long time - item type unknown 35hr   fifth one, Same 50% mohair 50% cashmere - 40% completed - item type unknown 18hr   50% recycled yarn 50% cotton - item type unknown - 50% completed 7.5hr   50% recycled yarn 50% cotton - item type unknown 7.5hr Hand spun - completed - Malabrigo type in lime green 200yds 8hr Hand spun - 50% completed - Sock yarn goal 300 - 500yds 30hr est.   Hand spun - mystery - 15% completed 30hr est.   Hand made holiday soap - completed 6 hrs     253 total   90 hr to completion   385 hr to Christmas - ekk

kitty: sneak peak

Time for a sneak peak! I blocked out one corner of the shawl that I am currently working on to post a sneak peak about it. Since I was really bad last time posting about the green shawl. Last time though the green shawl just kind of fell off the needles and it was done. This one is taking longer since the pattern is a lot more difficult and the sock challenge of course. The red shawl has a definitive deadline that it has to be finished by so lets hope the last 1/4th goes as fast as the first part. I am already thinking about the next Orenburgh shawl I want to knit. I may or may not be totally obsessed with these shawls. There is just something magical about them. They are so airy, they feel like nothing while you knit them, and the patterns are so fragile. Sorry about the poor quality in the photos. The blue red really didn't want to be photographed. Also I really need to come up with a better way to block the points.

PS. Francesca, I promise to post the tutorial about knitting the body and the border at the same time soon. I just need to convince my husband to take pictures. I have worked up a couple of sketches as well.

kitty: adventures into Orenburg Lace continues, see I promised more Fo's

First off, I would just like to wish a very happy birthday to a dear friend who I know reads this blog. I also know you would kill me if I revealed it was your birthday, so this little warm wish will have to be anonymous. Sending you lots of Birthday Good Wishes and Hugs!!!!!

My First adventure into Orenburg Lace after my amazing chance tea meeting! The Specs: Starter Orenburg Shawl kit (62*59 inches lightly blocked) Yarn: The kit just says Goat - Not the nicest yarn in the world. I wish I had ordered the Orenburg lace yarn from Schoolhouse. Needles: Size US8 Time: about 1 week of lots of late night waiting Cost: 12.95+Shipping - A Touch of Russia Seattle,WA

Woho, it passes the ring test. A successful Orenburg Lace shawl is suppose to be able to slip easily through your wedding rings. Mine passed with flying colours. Though I couldn't find my wedding rings when it was time to take the photo, so I just grabbed my favorite cameo. It is a Victorian Morning ring from 1818 with a weeping willow and an urn carved into shell. (M and I really don't wear our rings since we are on the computer 18 hours a day. It is definitely an occupational hazard when you want to find them to pull your lace shawl through.)

Since the last lace project I worked on I swore up and down I would never knit on a border again, I used one of the techniques in Heirloom Knitting where you knit the border as you go along. You leave your double points kind of hanging on the edge and you pick up the last stitch of the row you are on. For me it really speed up my knitting speed. It also eliminates the seam line that you run into when you knit it on. The shawl is a really simple design. It consists of only two lace patterns. One is the body and the other is the Strawberry Border no fancy points though which are a major characteristic. I have more yarn I may go back.

All and all it is a great introduction to an Old Russian craft. The only down side is the yarn though not mohair has me sneezing my head off. Update: Thanks Francesca and Opportunityknits for commenting. I will try to get photos of the whole shawl the next time we have a sunny non-windy day here in Columbus. The photos my husband took of me wearing it were horrible and I could never get it to lay flat to get a full photo. :( Also Francesca I will try to take some photos of the technique and write up how I did it. Thank you so much

kitty: Orenburg Lace

You know it is really kind of funny how a simple thing as going out for a cup of tea with your knitting can bring two knitters together. M and I went to our favorite teahouse here in Columbus and I was swatching for my St. Patrick's Day knitting project Twisted Flower Sock. I had great plans to sit Saturday afternoon and just knit. It wasn't like going out in Columbus this weekend would be a particularly fun with all the basketball traffic. Unfortunately, all I did was sit and work. It is pretty funny though we went out to grab groceries Saturday afternoon, and during the last 3 min of the OSU basketball game half of the cars on the interstate were swerving and going 45 - 50mph. This is an OSU sport town no doubt, but I digress. So I was setting there drinking a cup of tea and this Korean woman walked up to me and asked what I was knitting. I showed her Cookie's amazing pattern. The conversation then lead to the fact I have been obsessed with lace knitting as of late, and ended up talking about Orenburg Lace. As a child her Russian nanny had basically made her memorize and commit to memory the 12 basic patterns of Orenburg Lace. She stood there while she waited for tea and drew out the ones she remembered in my little notebook. I have never been so thankful for a piece of pen and paper. She then started to talk about the fact that when her nanny was a child; all children sat and learned how to knit and committed these simple patterns to memory. She remembered as a child knitting a sampler to perfect these simple stitches over and over again. Essentially all of the patterns were based on different order of yo and K2tog. Nothing was written down, no fancy charts, just simple zeros on a page that was written out before you started. It was something that you just assumed everyone knew how to do, so no need to record it. I then asked her if she minded if I posted the charts on my blog and she said feel free. "There are two few people in the world that knit any more and probably less than that know anything about Orenburg Lace." She just kept thanking me for being a young person who knits. It saddened her that her children show no interest in any form of crafts. Then she admitted the only thing she does today is Sudoku. So here is her very brief tutorial on the basic patterns: (There are two others, that unfortunately I couldn't figure out how to chart from her sketches. One was a chain of interlocking hearts that reminded me much of the one in the Arctic Lace and the other one looks like an interlocking chain of cats paws.)

"Honeycomb" - all over patterns

"Mouse Paws" - used for borders

"Fish Eyes"

"Strawberry"- her favorite

"Peas" - fill in corners

"Cat Paws"

"Accordion"

Charts were created using a really cool online "Chart Creator"

I now really want to find out as much as I can about Orenburg Lace. I was shocked when I did a quick google and there was very little information. It looks like there are only two books that I could find in English. I found one reference to an amazing Russian Reference book, but that was about it. And yes I quickly ordered two used copies of the two English titles when I found them. It just always amazes me when knitting brings two strangers together to start a conversation. I have had this happen many a time, but really it never ceases to amaze me.

Books: Gossamer Webs: The History and Techniques of Orenburg Lace Shawls by Carol R. Noble (Author), Galina Khmeleva (Author) Interweave Press (November 1, 1998) ISBN-10: 1883010411 Ingram Annotation: Shawls are back, they're better than ever, and in Gossamer Webs, the only book available on intricate Russian shawl knitting, you'll find all the information you need to knit them! Gossamer Webs includes technical information, from the combing of goats for fiber to the spinning process to the basics of shawl design. Instructions for a miniature shawl prepare readers to knit the complete pattern for the Orenburg Eastern Shawl, pattern included.

The Gossamer Webs Design Collection (Paperback) by Galina Khmeleva (Author) Interweave Press Inc (October 2003) ISBN-10: 188301087X Ingram Annotation: Gossamer Webs Design Collection, by Galina Khmeleva, is design interpretation of three Orenburg shawls. The sample shawl and stitch and border dictionary are excerpted from Gossamer Webs and combined with instructions for the Diamond Triangular Shawl, the Pine Tree Palatine Scarf, and the Medallion Square shawl. Both charts and written instructions are provided and lace or fingering weight yarns are recommended.

Skaska Designs - List of link to magazine publications

Links on Orenburg Lace: History of Orenburg goat down knitted shawls Heriloom Knitting offers the Mohair and mini kits AC- The Peoples Media - The Lace Shawls of Orenburg in Russia Lavender Farm - Orenburg Lace Shawls from Russia (Check out the photo of the spindles and the link to the folktale's about spinners) Wabisabi: From Russia with Love - look at the wonderful find The Orenburg Down Shawl book

Fun Lace Links: Zeneedle - Lace-uary News Knitter's BookShelf - I know nothing about them but had an awesome collection of lace books.